Post by Whiterook on Sept 12, 2023 11:06:28 GMT -5
I’d not heard of these products until running across a build log on another forum where a modeler described using them for his model’s decals. Hmmmmm”, I said! SO, I looked them up 
They are sold by Mr. Hobby, which is a brand from the Japanese “Gunpla” company Gunze (Gunpla stands for Gundam Play, the hobby of assembling and modelling plastic Gundam model kits).
Mr. Mark Setter & Mr. Mark Softer are sold in separate bottles, being a softening agent designed to be used with decals (transfers). It enables decals to conform to rough (ex. recesses panel lines or sharp valley joints) and curved surfaces, by basically melting the decal into the surfaces, especially the nooks and crannies. Making the decal conform so precisely does two things: It helps to rescue the chance of air bubbles, which when air gets under a decal, it produces an unwanted effect known as “silvering”, where the decal looks like a separate decal on a model; and the melting into the surface produces the look of a “painted on” rondel or other unit marking. Both these products are to be used together, but at different stages.
The way to use the two products is:
Finally, you should seal your model with your choice of dullcoat or matte varnish, which will remove the slightly glossy finish the setting solution leaves.
They are sold by Mr. Hobby, which is a brand from the Japanese “Gunpla” company Gunze (Gunpla stands for Gundam Play, the hobby of assembling and modelling plastic Gundam model kits).Mr. Mark Setter & Mr. Mark Softer are sold in separate bottles, being a softening agent designed to be used with decals (transfers). It enables decals to conform to rough (ex. recesses panel lines or sharp valley joints) and curved surfaces, by basically melting the decal into the surfaces, especially the nooks and crannies. Making the decal conform so precisely does two things: It helps to rescue the chance of air bubbles, which when air gets under a decal, it produces an unwanted effect known as “silvering”, where the decal looks like a separate decal on a model; and the melting into the surface produces the look of a “painted on” rondel or other unit marking. Both these products are to be used together, but at different stages.
The way to use the two products is:
- First, apply a coat of gloss varnish (I use Future Floor acrylic, brushed on) to protect the model’s paint job and to create a perfectly smooth surface for the transfer to adhere to.
- Once dry, you then apply a thin coat of Mr. Mark Setter with the handy brush that’s part of the inner bottle cap! This is an adhesive, that will increase the bonding, and will also help to keep the decal in place even on the aforementioned irregular or curved parts of the model. Apply the decal over this area and apply gentle pressure to the decal with a moistened (but not wet!) cotton bud (Q-Tip) (or soft cloth), removing any excessive liquid and ensuring that the decal down fast. The decal will stick perfectly, even on uneven or curved surfaces. NOTE: If air bubbles do get in between the decal and the model surface, allow the decal to dry, and then carefully prick the decal with a needle and insert Mr.Mark Softer through the resulting hole. The air will escape, and the decal will then stick down conforming to the surface of the plastic part.
- Once the decal and the Setter solution have dried, you will then need to apply several coats of Mr. Mark Softer, letting each coat dry before applying the next. Each coat will soften the carrying film of the transfer more and more, until the decal has perfectly conformed to the model’s surface without any wrinkles or bubbles, and the carrier film’s edges are no longer visible (the aforementioned, “silvering”).
Finally, you should seal your model with your choice of dullcoat or matte varnish, which will remove the slightly glossy finish the setting solution leaves.
