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Post by mikeh on Jun 27, 2023 13:34:27 GMT -5
Anyone have any experience working with workable plastic tracks with plastic pins? I would like to know your experience with them. Thanks
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Post by Whiterook on Jun 28, 2023 7:45:13 GMT -5
Anyone have any experience working with workable plastic tracks with plastic pins? I would like to know your experience with them. Thanks Boy, that’s a great question I’d like to know, as well! …I’ve not done any armor track assembly, plastic or metal so, no help here I’m afraid. I’m betting Urban does! In the meantime, check this out? wargamingdropzone.proboards.com/thread/499/basics-armored-vehicle-tracks |
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Post by Geek44 on Jul 5, 2023 23:48:13 GMT -5
Never used the workable plastic ones as I only ever use Friulmodel tracks exclusively. I'll bet there are similarities and differences. I favour metal tracks for their realistic sag. Perhaps plastic ones can depict that well also.
I would think universally it would be important to ensure all pin holes are open to accept their pins. You pretty much need to drill out every link on the Friulmodel ones.
I always insert pins on the "inside" side of runs and I usually assemble most of the run as a single length, then a few pairs of links and then singles to get the right length. Too much sag is as bad as not enough but this will depend on your vehicle as modern tracks are very different in character to WW2 vintage.
I assemble my tracks unpainted and will fit both sides with a removeable pin to get the lengths right. Then I remove, paint and weather.
Hope this helps in some way.
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Post by mikeh on Jul 6, 2023 11:20:41 GMT -5
I will get a picture up of what they look like. Fruil and other metal track makers use just a single pin for the link these have a short plastic pin for each side of the link. These are from a Border Models PzIV J Late, it comes with link and length and also there plastic workable indy links.
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Post by mikeh on Jul 7, 2023 10:53:09 GMT -5
Looks like an exercise in utter frustration to me. They do come with a jig for assembly but wow, so many teeny tiny plastic pins.   |
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Post by Geek44 on Jul 8, 2023 2:58:34 GMT -5
I can see that being quite tedious but I'd take that over rubber band or link and length any day.
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McCoy
Sergeant
Posts: 215 
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Post by McCoy on Jul 8, 2023 15:48:33 GMT -5
I can see that being quite tedious but I'd take that over rubber band or link and length any day. Same here mate! Well worth the extra time plus it's more bang for the money as you get more hours per spent money... |
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Post by Whiterook on Jul 10, 2023 15:43:30 GMT -5
I can see that being quite tedious but I'd take that over rubber band or link and length any day. Same here mate! Well worth the extra time plus it's more bang for the money as you get more hours per spent money... I agree with both of you… well worth the time and effort, but I get the frustration thing Mike mentions; for me, I think I’d cut all the pins and place them in a small lidded cup first and grab as I built… seems to me that cutting them from the sprue would be the most precarious part of the operation, as they be a b*/ch to find of ot flipped out onto the floor! I’ve always admired built linked track for the realism of sag and fit, vs the rubber band jobbies… I always see to find the pins modelers use to get rubber band sag  |
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