Post by Whiterook on Feb 21, 2023 15:58:41 GMT -5
This is an outstanding video!
Though there are different brands and applicators of and for liquid cement, I’ve just discovered the Gold Standard… for me, anyway! Tamiya Extra-Thin Liquid Cement.
I remember way back when I reinterred the hobby, I saw a lot of modelers using the liquid cement type you see in small pot glass jars, with a brush mounted on the inner cap lid. Testors and Tamiya Extra-Thin were the two top brands I would see. The explanation of use, when rarely given was that it was applied thinly and allow capillary action to wick the liquid glue into the pressed together seam of the two pieces you were joining. Sounds simple, right? Well, it always confused me, as I never could get anyone to tell me how much glue to apply, what angle to the brush, how long it took to catch hold (I understood you left to dry a good long time, but how long for that bite!); and the most confusing question of all was, what kind of brush do you use if you want to forego using the cap brush…Tamiya’s has a nice conical brush, but testors is kinda huge and all over the place at the ends (more on that in a moment). Take a look at this video…it’s well worth the time!
So, many things were answered for me…kinda an Ah Ha moment!
When I rendered model building, I used the old style, thick gel type cement almost all of us used in the 70s! Messy, nasty stuff, though more people than I’d care to know got quite high on the shit! I then quickly switched to Model Master liquid cement, in the style that has a diamond shaped belly and a metal rod pipette applicator (like a straw); loved it and used it exclusively during that reentry to the hobby. I picked up the glass bottle type referred to in this thread towards when I stopped building several years ago, but was confused by it, so it got no joy. After watching this video (and having a devil of a time finding the Model Master stuff with a metal pipette), I have a very strong feeling I’m about to make that next, third big leap to bottles liquid glue; as I mentioned, I have some Testors, but I’m pretty sure I’m switching Tamiya!
Hope this helps, and provides you with the info and use strategy I’d been seeking for a long time. God bless YouTUBE!
Though there are different brands and applicators of and for liquid cement, I’ve just discovered the Gold Standard… for me, anyway! Tamiya Extra-Thin Liquid Cement.
I remember way back when I reinterred the hobby, I saw a lot of modelers using the liquid cement type you see in small pot glass jars, with a brush mounted on the inner cap lid. Testors and Tamiya Extra-Thin were the two top brands I would see. The explanation of use, when rarely given was that it was applied thinly and allow capillary action to wick the liquid glue into the pressed together seam of the two pieces you were joining. Sounds simple, right? Well, it always confused me, as I never could get anyone to tell me how much glue to apply, what angle to the brush, how long it took to catch hold (I understood you left to dry a good long time, but how long for that bite!); and the most confusing question of all was, what kind of brush do you use if you want to forego using the cap brush…Tamiya’s has a nice conical brush, but testors is kinda huge and all over the place at the ends (more on that in a moment). Take a look at this video…it’s well worth the time!
So, many things were answered for me…kinda an Ah Ha moment!
- You begin with a dry-fit of the two pieces to be glued together, ensuring they fit well; trim laxement pins if needed, or any flash and anchor nibs from the sprue you may have missed. Then, holding the pieces together…
- A small stab kinda dab of the brush against the seam will tack the two halves in place, and the liquid glue will flow both ways, via capillary action; but you can also use longer strokes along the seam, with the same capillary action happening… depends on the area/seam being worked on.
- You can hold the brush side to the seam, or draw the tip down (if you have a steady hand).
- The “bite time” is rather quick! Since there’s not a ton of glue applied, I would think this speeds to,e to seal…but it won’t be fully cured for hours so, be careful with those gorilla mits!
- It’s often a good idea to use clamps to hold the pieces together; I’d make sure they stay on until the piece if fully cured.
- If you don’t want to use the brush that comes with bottle lid… a fine tipped art brush works great!
When I rendered model building, I used the old style, thick gel type cement almost all of us used in the 70s! Messy, nasty stuff, though more people than I’d care to know got quite high on the shit! I then quickly switched to Model Master liquid cement, in the style that has a diamond shaped belly and a metal rod pipette applicator (like a straw); loved it and used it exclusively during that reentry to the hobby. I picked up the glass bottle type referred to in this thread towards when I stopped building several years ago, but was confused by it, so it got no joy. After watching this video (and having a devil of a time finding the Model Master stuff with a metal pipette), I have a very strong feeling I’m about to make that next, third big leap to bottles liquid glue; as I mentioned, I have some Testors, but I’m pretty sure I’m switching Tamiya!
Hope this helps, and provides you with the info and use strategy I’d been seeking for a long time. God bless YouTUBE!
…hey, I saw on Chrome’s latest build he uses Mr. Cement S…is there a big difference between S and SP? …he uses it more for texturing (melting surface areas).
